Review of The Cocochine

There’s something rather lovely about celebrating a milestone birthday with a long lunch, and when Alex turned 60 it felt like the perfect excuse to finally book The Cocochine in Mayfair. Tucked away just off Berkeley Square, it’s one of those restaurants that whispers luxury rather than shouting about it. The dining room is calm, elegant and beautifully understated – the sort of place where you instantly relax into your chair and know you’re in for a special afternoon.

A very delicious amuse bouche

We opted for the exceptional value set lunch menu, adding an order of Jersey Royal potatoes because, quite frankly, it would have been rude not to. Before the first course had even arrived, it was already clear that hospitality is taken very seriously here. The staff managed that difficult balance of being attentive without ever becoming obtrusive, always appearing just when needed and disappearing again just as quickly.

One of my favourite moments had nothing to do with the food itself. Curious about the Scottish lobster on the menu, I asked where it came from. Rather than simply answering, our waiter returned carrying a beautifully produced book about Tanera Mòr, the private Scottish island where much of the restaurant’s seafood is sourced. It was such an unexpected touch and spoke volumes about the pride the team has in their ingredients. He explained he had actually visited Rowler Farm, where much of the restaurant’s beef and lamb is reared, and chatted enthusiastically about the farming practices there. Those conversations never felt rehearsed; they felt genuine, personal and refreshingly enthusiastic.

Top left: Rowler Farm 40 days dry-aged beef tartar, pickled chilli, confit egg yolk

Top right: Raviolo of Scottish lobster & tiger prawns, garden greens, lime and lemongrass sauce

Bottom left: BBQ of Rowler Farm lamb shoulder, spring tomatoes, tamarind 

Bottom Right: Wild Scottish sea trout, fennel, citrus, lobster Vinaigrette

Chef Larry Jayasekara’s Sri Lankan heritage inevitably attracts attention, but what struck me was how firmly rooted the cooking is in classical French technique. Rather than bold South Asian flavours dominating the plate, the Sri Lankan influence appears as a gentle thread running through certain sauces, spices and desserts. The result feels far more French than Sri Lankan, with immaculate sauces, perfectly judged cooking and a wonderful respect for first-class British produce.

The sommelier also deserves a mention. Friendly, knowledgeable and entirely free from pretension, the wine recommendations suited both the food and our budget perfectly. It’s always a pleasure when someone can guide you towards a great glass without making you feel as though you’re sitting an exam.

How pretty is that?

I skipped dessert, but Alex opted for Tahiti vanilla ice cream with jaggery caramel, which was swiftly joined with a celebratory gift!

As birthdays go, the final flourish was particularly touching. Along with the dessert and candle came a card signed by the entire team, featuring a charming painted illustration of the restaurant’s exterior and birthday wishes for Alex. It was completely unexpected and transformed what was already a memorable meal into something genuinely personal.

For two people, including the set lunch menu, Jersey Royals, two glasses of wine and two beers, the final bill came to £149.50. In Mayfair, for cooking of this calibre, service this polished and hospitality this thoughtful, it felt remarkably fair value.

The Cocochine may have all the refinement of a Michelin-level dining room, but it also possesses something far harder to teach: warmth. We arrived looking forward to a birthday lunch and left already wondering when we could justify another visit. Sometimes it’s the little touches that stay with you longest, and The Cocochine has mastered them beautifully.

The Cocochine

27 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London W1J 6NQ

Reservations can be made via the restaurant's website: www.thecocochine.com. I would definitely recommend booking ahead, especially if you're planning a Friday lunch or celebrating a special occasion.