Isle of Raasay: Wild Roads, Ruined Castles, and Quiet Stories

The ferry returning to Skye

Ever since we bought Beachcomber Cottage on the Isle of Skye I've been wanting to visit the Isle of Rassay, but the right opportunity just hadn't presented itself, until this week. We chose a glorious spring day for our visit, so really got to appreciated the island in all it's spring beauty.

Raasay comes from the Norse and means Isle of the Roe or Red Deer. There are some places that completely take you by surprise — and the Isle of Raasay did exactly that. It’s small, remote, and barely a hop across the water from Skye. But what it lacks in size, it makes up for in atmosphere, history, and that slightly surreal feeling of stepping back in time.

With only around 160 people living here, Raasay is the opposite of hectic. But for anyone who loves a place with stories baked into the landscape, this island is magic.

Getting to Raasay

The view from the ferry

Getting here is surprisingly easy — and part of the fun. CalMac runs a ferry from Sconser on the Isle of Skye, and the crossing takes about 25 minutes. You can bring a car (recommended if you want to explore), or come on foot and stick to local walks. Car and 4 people cost £37.30, you can pay on line to Cal Mac or on board the ferry.

There’s no public transport on Raasay, so plan ahead. But once you’re there, everything slows down — in the best possible way.

The Man Who Built a Road – Calum’s Road

The start of Calum's Road - with a tribute to the tools he used

Let’s start with one of the most incredible things I’ve come across on my travels: Calum’s Road.

Back in the 1960s, the tiny northern hamlet of Arnish was still only accessible by a rough footpath. Locals had been asking the Highland Council for a road for years — and got nowhere. So, one man, Calum MacLeod, decided to build it himself. Seriously.

Armed with just hand tools — a pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow — Calum spent over ten years painstakingly building a proper road from Brochel to Arnish. It’s about 1¾ miles long and winds its way through rough, rocky terrain. He finished it in the 1970s, and eventually the council came in to tar it… but by then, Calum and his wife were the last residents left in Arnish.

It’s such a moving story — not just about isolation, but about quiet resilience. Walking or driving along that road is something special. You feel the determination built into every curve. There's a broch in his memory.

Brochel Castle: Ruin with a View

It's hard to tell what is rock outcrop and what is Brochel Castle

Not far from Calum’s Road is Brochel Castle — or what’s left of it. The ruin clings to a craggy outcrop above the sea, and although it’s a shadow of its former self, there’s something commanding about it.

Built in the 15th or 16th century by the MacLeods of Raasay, this was once a proper fortress. From here, they could watch the waters between Raasay and Skye, keeping an eye on who was coming and going. The stonework blends into the rock beneath it, almost as if the castle grew out of the cliff itself.

It’s a bit of a clamber to reach, but worth it for the view — Skye rising across the water, the wind curling off the sea. Atmospheric doesn’t quite cover it.

Raasay’s Industrial Ghost – The Iron Ore Mine

Further south, near Inverarish, there’s a bit of Raasay history that feels like it belongs somewhere else entirely — an iron ore mine.

In 1913, they began mining here, and during WWI, German prisoners of war were brought in to help extract the ore. Around 250,000 tons were removed before the mine closed in 1920. Now, all that’s left are rusting remains and crumbling buildings, half-swallowed by the landscape.

It’s haunting in the best way — a glimpse into an industrial past that feels at odds with the stillness of the island today.

Whilst we were there we caught sight of the air-force in training, it seems not so much has changed.

It's rather eerie hearing and seeing these planes in such an otherwise tranquil spot

Food, drink and accommodation

The view from the cafe in Raasay House Hotel is rather stunning

The Isle of Raasay Distillery is the go-to spot, whether you're after a tour, a dram of their excellent whisky, or just a coffee with a knockout view across to Skye. The bar and lounge area is open to non-guests, and it’s got a warm, relaxed feel. For food, Raasay House is your main hub. It’s open to the public and serves hearty, locally sourced meals. Just check ahead for seasonal opening times, as things tend to wind down a bit in winter. Both have accommodation, with the hotel also offering a variety of activities.

Final Thoughts

Raasay doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t need to. Its stories — Calum’s Road, the castle, the mine — are the kind that whisper to you as you walk. It’s not showy. It’s real, weathered, and quietly unforgettable.

If you're planning a trip to Skye, do yourself a favour — add a day (or two) for Raasay. It just might be the highlight you weren’t expecting.