Since buying our cottage on the Isle of Skye, we've been enjoying exploring the local foodie scene. We are incredibly lucky in our little hamlet of Stein that we are next door to the only Michelin starred restaurant on Skye, Loch Bay, and a few yards from the oldest Inn on Skye, the Stein Inn, which serves excellent gastropub dishes. But, sometimes it's nice to explore a bit further afield. So far, we've enjoyed beautiful meals at The Three Chimneys, Edinbane Lodge and a very decent dinner at the Skeabost Hotel in the depths of January when a lot of businesses are closed. Last week we ventured the 30 minute drive to Portree, which is the capital of the island, to try the fare at Scorrybreac restaurant.
Scorrybreac translates as speckled rock, the perfect descriptor of the dark stony cliffs just along the bay from the restaurant, where we have spotted white tailed eagles in the daytime.
Set above the harbour, this is an intimate restaurant with around 20 covers, so pre-booking is highly recommended. It feels a little as if you're sitting in someone's sitting room, and that someone happens to be rather hospitable.
Upstairs, there's a small new cocktail bar with fantastic views of Portree below, and it has to be said one of the best cocktails I've ever had (and I've had a few in my time!) My buckthorn sour was perfectly balanced and completely delightful.
The Chef Calum Munro (son of the lead singer with Runrig) changes the modern Scottish menu regularly in rhythm with the seasonal produce of Skye. We were fortunate to experience the new spring menu. We were advised by the waiting staff that we should order around 5-6 dishes between 2 people; the menu isn't huge and larger parties often order the whole menu.
We've eaten at Adam Handling's 'Frog' several times, so the lure of sour dough bread with chicken butter was irresistible! This was tasty, but didn't pack the same chickeny punch as Adam's - sorry Calum. Having said that, the bread was wonderful, and hard to resist.
The dishes arrive as they are ready, which gives an element of surprise to the meal.
First to arrive was one of my favourite dishes of the evening; the smoked trout roe, cultured cream and rice crackers, the the bar was set high indeed. This was so rich, and a perfect contrast between salty, smoky and creamy.
Staffin seaweed, king mushrooms and crispy chilli is the kind of dish which would tempt me to become vegetarian. The balance of salty, earthy with a hint of fire was inspired. A contender for dish of the night for me.
The mussels in highland cider with fennel and lime leaf were as sweet as you could wish for, and a great excuse to use that lovely bread to mop up the sauce.
Our final dish was the delicate cod with smoked leeks and a chicken veloute. This was another very refined dish, cooked with subtlety.
The waiting staff were informative and friendly, and we felt very welcome throughout the evening. We will be back (in fact we're booked for June!)
Our meal cost around £110 for the 2 of us including my cocktail and a beer as well as a tip.
7 Bosville Terrace, Portree, United Kingdom
01478 612069
